Talkeetna Air Taxi

We just got back last night from 15 days on the Ruth Gateway/Upper Gorge part of the glacier.  Our main objective was the West Ridge of the Mooses Tooth.  Once on the route we found ourselves wallowing through 1-3 feet of snow that had fallen...it was a blast.  The upper part of route, day two of the climb, we found snow conditions that were scary.  Up the couloir it was firm, but traversing the ridge we were sinking up to our waists in faceted snow.  No ice, pickets wouldn't hold, so just below the West summit we turned back.

The Japanese Couloir on Barrill was in good condition the following week.  The snow is firm,  and with rock and snow pro you can protect the traverse without a problem, and the crevasses to the top are all covered.  It was an enjoyable day.

Weather:  It never opened up and really dumped for days.  The schedule seemed like it was two and a half days of nice weather.  then two days of crappy low clouds.  The 2.5 days of nice were not Colorado Bluebird, more in and out with light happy clouds all around.  So for what that is worth....

The glacier itself is very covered with snow.  Skiing in the area is still very "in".  Because of this the ice on the steeper routes is not ideal.  People are getting up ham and eggs, but shaken not stirred is ice free....making it a no go.

Bring the skis if you are flying on in the near future.  And bring a sat. phone if you want flexibility.  TAT was great. Our neighbors on the glacier tried to climb the West Ridge a few days ago.  On the way up one of them stepped into a crevasse, his pack went over top of him, which blew out his knee.  We happened to see them with the binocs low on the route.  One was schooching down on his butt, and the other was carrying both packs.  So we packed up a quick "rescue kit" and met them at the base of the route.  We fired up the satellite phone and literally 45 mins later Paul was on the glacier and they were on their way to showers and beers in Talkeetna.  Thats impressive! 

Mark Smiley