Talkeetna Air Taxi

The largest peak in North America allures us all with its size and beauty. Being able to fly next to Denali or land on one of its glaciers is a once in a lifetime experience for most. For some the urge to climb the mountain takes over. One hundred years ago the first climbers stood on the summit of Denali. It is amazing to think about how Denali expeditions have changed over the last 100 yrs. Below is a picture of Harry Karstens and Robert Tatum from the first expedition on Denali.

 

During this historical year there will be another first on Denali. Expedition Denali, as part of the National Outdoor Leadership School, will be a group of all African American participants. They aim "to inspire youth of color—and particularly African American youth—to get outside, get active, and become stewards of our wild places." Learn more about this inspiring journey here: http://expeditiondenali.nols.edu/about/

This year there will be several events and exhibits to check out around Alaska celebrating the centennial summit of Denali. Here are links to some of them:

http://www.uaf.edu/museum/exhibits/special/legacy/

http://www.nps.gov/dena/historyculture/1913.htm

Picture below courtesy of Tyler Westhoff.

 

The Ruth has been a busy landing strip the last few days after a fresh meter of snow.  Once the drizzle stopped in Talkeenta and the snow in the mountains TAT flew all over Alaska to drop climbers off for their adventures. We have groups in the Buckskin, Gorge, Pika Ruth glacier and even into the Kichatnas.  They all know that TAT will get you there, and pick you up!  Current conditions around the range appear good with average snow pack.  Looks like there has been little to no freeze thaw yet.

Currently in the range, over half of our climbers came all the way to Alaska from France.

Here is a photo from when we dropped a group of 9 French off in the Kichatna Mountains.

So as climbing season is starting to gear up we have some pre-season condition reports while we are still awaiting our first groups to return with some good beta.
Snow fall in general has been above average, compared to the last five years, and the snow conditions appear to be stable.
It is starting to warm up in the range with temps of zero at night and up to a whopping 20 degrees during the day.
Looks like ice is starting to take shape. Stay tuned for reports as our groups get back.

Kahiltna and Ruth routes are looking good from the air, but no climber reports yet.

 Groups that have been into the Mountain House in March have been lucky to get spectacular shows of the Northern Lights.  But our day light is coming back at 6 minutes a day, and the sun is now setting at 9:00 pm.  Welcome to the midnight sun.

Here is a picture of the East face of the Moose's Tooth and the Bear tooth taken earlier this week.

   

Early season sneak preview of the Gorge......  ohh la la.  Conditions are looking good, reports should be coming in these next weeks.

Come one, come all! Just come dressed up as a TV character. Think Jersey Shore, Gilligan's Island, Fat Albert, The Office, The Lone Ranger, MASH, Charlies Angels, Fantasy Island, Starsky and Hutch... the list can go on and on.

We love accessorize it day!

We work hard to keep things running smooth around here...

Check out the cool motorcycle one of our customers drove up in from California. What will they think of next?

Team Salamander spent 10 fun days on the Pika, flying out July 1, 2011. Weather was in-and-out sun, allowing a total of 5 climbing days. The trend was toward evening clearing, with two days of full sun. The moats are in but with rain and warming things are quickly melting. There is still a decent snow bridge to the Gargoyle Buttress. The start of the first pitch had some ice which we attacked with ice axes (though one could climb with rock shoes and creative route finding). An Anchorage team replaced the webbing on the first 9 anchors last week. The Middle Troll has widening moats as well, but there are still a couple of intact bridges. The first 200' are loose gravel and boulders, and are not safe for more than one party to be on at a time. Lost Marsupials approach was straightforward. Summit ridge with corniced, soft snow. AMS arete approach without major crevasses, though the glaciers on either side are bare to the dust layer and snow cover melting fast. 

We don't waste any time!