Talkeetna Air Taxi

The largest peak in North America allures us all with its size and beauty. Being able to fly next to Denali or land on one of its glaciers is a once in a lifetime experience for most. For some the urge to climb the mountain takes over. One hundred years ago the first climbers stood on the summit of Denali. It is amazing to think about how Denali expeditions have changed over the last 100 yrs. Below is a picture of Harry Karstens and Robert Tatum from the first expedition on Denali.

 

During this historical year there will be another first on Denali. Expedition Denali, as part of the National Outdoor Leadership School, will be a group of all African American participants. They aim "to inspire youth of color—and particularly African American youth—to get outside, get active, and become stewards of our wild places." Learn more about this inspiring journey here: http://expeditiondenali.nols.edu/about/

This year there will be several events and exhibits to check out around Alaska celebrating the centennial summit of Denali. Here are links to some of them:

http://www.uaf.edu/museum/exhibits/special/legacy/

http://www.nps.gov/dena/historyculture/1913.htm

Picture below courtesy of Tyler Westhoff.

 

We have kicked off climbing season dropping climbers all over the place.  We have groups in the Hayes range, Tordrillos, Kichatnas and the Revelations coming up.  This is why TAT is climbers' #1 choice for drop offs in and around the Alaska Range. 

The Ruth season is upon us.  There has been above average snow fall and cooler temps so far.  Looks like there is uniform snow pack and in general stable conditions.  We have a few groups in there now we are awaiting more reports from.

This photo is from the Kichatnas where the conditions look good.  The objective for this group is the Citadel from Shadows glacier. 

 

Alaska has multiple earthquakes daily varying in magnitude. Last Thursday the 5th of July there was a rumbler felt here in Talkeetna. The magnitude registered at 4.29 and was 58 miles from Talkeetna. TAT pilot Tim Gossett was out on a scenic flight landing on the Ruth glacier. He caught this photo of an avalanche as a result of the earthquake.

Coming back from a glacier landing flight in the Alaska Range can often leave people speechless.  Thanks to our pilot Tyler for this stunning picture from yesterday evening on the Ruth Glacier.  It's easy to see how this is the highlight of any Alaska experience.  Can you imagine wanting to be anywhere else?

 

We are more than halfway through the Denali climbing season.  Summit success rates have been a bit over 40% most in part due to the Denali weather, the biggest obstacle in climbing this mountain.

 Here are the current stats from the National Park Service. 

Climbing Statistics the 2012 Season	Mt. McKinley	Mt. Foraker
Number of Registered Climbers	1,166	12
Climbers Currently On Mountain	440	3
Completed Climbs	488	9
Number of Summits	212	0
Summit Percentage	43%	0%

 

 

We just love fan mail and Thank You Free Approved expedition for all of your beautiful photos.

This is from a group we flew into the Revelation mountains in April.  They had some stellar weather and caught some beautiful photos, that they have shared with us.  

"In the name of the Freeapproved Expedition members I would like to thank you all for your help and service flying us to our dream location in Revelation mountains and beyond. I hope the locations stays unpopular and not visited for yours to come :)

 

From what I have experienced, your service can hardly be improved. It is indeed so great, that there is nothing to add. If I try and search my memory, than the only thing there is left to do is for you to smile less being so kind, because smiling back to you makes my facial muscles hurt :)

You were truly amazing replying hundreds of my emails, tons of questions and other things such as receiving dozens of parcels and shipments etc.

I will make sure to recommend your company to everyone i know flying in that area and hopefully, we will be flying to you the next time we come to explore Alaska.

All the best from Freeapproved Team from Slovenia,

Anze Cokl"

Lisa has arrived at her camp for the next 2 1/2 months, where she will be there to meet and greet climbers that come from all over the globe to climb Denali.  She and her troop of strong volunteers flew into the Kahiltna Glacier on Friday April 27th to shovel her tent spot for the season.  They dug down about 8 feet to provide shelter from the wind, cold temperatures and the inevitable meltage from the Alaskan midnight sun. 

 

TAT's Downtown Superstar Randi volunteered to help set up basecamp.  Here she is resting her back from shoveling while basking in the sun.  Seems like one of the first years that basecamp set up has happened without delays on a beautiful bluebird day.  Hopefully that weather trend will continue this summer with beautiful days of mountain flying and taking climbers to their next adventures.

Our first French group, 'Alaska Moose' just returned from their trip to the Bear Tooth.

They have  made a first ascent on a route they are calling "The Bear Skin".  Below is a very descriptive map of their route, which is also on file with the National Park Service office in Talkeetna. They said snow conditions were good, but during their trip the temperatures were warming up and the ice was melting a bit.

Congratulations to the group for establishing a new route, we will be looking forward to seeing them next time for their climbing expedition.

The Ruth has been a busy landing strip the last few days after a fresh meter of snow.  Once the drizzle stopped in Talkeenta and the snow in the mountains TAT flew all over Alaska to drop climbers off for their adventures. We have groups in the Buckskin, Gorge, Pika Ruth glacier and even into the Kichatnas.  They all know that TAT will get you there, and pick you up!  Current conditions around the range appear good with average snow pack.  Looks like there has been little to no freeze thaw yet.

Currently in the range, over half of our climbers came all the way to Alaska from France.

Here is a photo from when we dropped a group of 9 French off in the Kichatna Mountains.

So as climbing season is starting to gear up we have some pre-season condition reports while we are still awaiting our first groups to return with some good beta.
Snow fall in general has been above average, compared to the last five years, and the snow conditions appear to be stable.
It is starting to warm up in the range with temps of zero at night and up to a whopping 20 degrees during the day.
Looks like ice is starting to take shape. Stay tuned for reports as our groups get back.

Kahiltna and Ruth routes are looking good from the air, but no climber reports yet.

 Groups that have been into the Mountain House in March have been lucky to get spectacular shows of the Northern Lights.  But our day light is coming back at 6 minutes a day, and the sun is now setting at 9:00 pm.  Welcome to the midnight sun.

Here is a picture of the East face of the Moose's Tooth and the Bear tooth taken earlier this week.

   

Early season sneak preview of the Gorge......  ohh la la.  Conditions are looking good, reports should be coming in these next weeks.